Add every card you owe on and this runs six payoff plans side by side, including snowball, avalanche, a balance transfer and a consolidation loan. It uses the daily interest method your issuer actually uses and a real minimum payment formula that shrinks as your balance falls, which is where most calculators quietly understate how long you will be paying. Everything stays in your browser. No signup, no bank linking, nothing leaves your device.
Balance and APR are on your statement. Credit limit is optional and only used for the utilisation tracking.
| Card | Balance | APR % | Credit limit | Min % | Min floor | Used |
|---|
| Plan | Months | Interest | Fees | Total paid | Debt free |
|---|
| Card | Balance | APR | Interest paid | Gone by |
|---|
Nearly every credit card calculator online makes one of two shortcuts, and both of them make your debt look smaller than it is.
The first is treating your minimum payment as a fixed dollar amount. Real minimums are not fixed. A typical issuer charges roughly one percent of your balance plus the interest for the month, with a floor of $25 or $35. As your balance falls, the minimum falls with it, which is precisely why minimum only payoff drags on for so long. Feed a fixed minimum into a calculator and it finishes years early.
The second is charging interest once a month on the closing balance. Issuers use the average daily balance and a daily periodic rate, which is your APR divided by 365. Compounded daily across a year, that difference is real.
This calculator does both properly. It recalculates each card's minimum every month and accrues interest daily. That is why the payoff month here is sometimes longer than what a competing tool shows you. The longer number is the correct one.
Both methods work the same mechanically. You pay the minimum on every card, then throw every spare dollar at one target card. When that card dies, its whole payment rolls into the next target. The rolling payment is the snowball effect and it happens under either method.
They differ only on which card gets the extra money.
| Avalanche | Snowball | |
|---|---|---|
| Target | Highest APR first | Smallest balance first |
| Optimises | Money | Motivation |
| First win arrives | Later | Sooner |
| Total interest | Lowest possible | Usually a bit more |
| Best when | You will stick to a plan | You have stalled before |
The honest summary is that the gap between them is often smaller than people expect. On a typical three or four card mix the difference is frequently one to three months and a couple of hundred dollars. It grows when one card carries a much higher rate than the rest, which is usually a store card.
Research from the Kellogg School of Management found that people paying off the smallest balance first were more likely to finish, which is the whole case for snowball. A plan you abandon in month eight saves you nothing, no matter how efficient it looked. Run both above and see what the difference is on your actual cards, then pick with your eyes open.
Hybrid clears anything under a thousand dollars first to get the count of cards down, then switches to highest APR for the rest. You get an early win and keep most of the savings.
Highest utilisation first targets the card that is closest to its limit rather than the one with the biggest balance or rate. This costs a little more in interest but moves your credit score fastest, because per card utilisation is what scoring models react to. If you are trying to qualify for a mortgage in the next year, this is often the order you want.
Minimum payments are not designed to get you out of debt. They are calculated to keep the account profitable for as long as regulation permits.
Take a $6,000 balance at 24 percent APR. Pay only the minimum at one percent plus interest, and you are looking at somewhere past twenty years and more interest than the original balance. Pay $250 a month flat and it is gone in roughly thirty months for a fraction of the interest.
The reason is that at the start almost your entire minimum payment is interest. On $6,000 at 24 percent the monthly interest alone is around $120. A minimum of about $180 means only $60 touches the principal. Every month the balance drops a little, so the minimum drops too, and progress slows as you go.
The calculator runs a minimum only line in the comparison table so you can see the version of your own future where nothing changes.
A 0 percent balance transfer is the single most powerful lever available to most people, and it is also the one most often misused.
The maths is straightforward. You pay a fee, usually three to five percent of the amount moved, and in exchange you stop paying interest for a set window, commonly fifteen to twenty one months. If the interest you avoid is larger than the fee, and you clear the balance inside the window, you win.
The trap is what happens if you do not clear it. Whatever is left when the promo expires jumps to the go to rate, which is often higher than the card you came from. Plenty of people transfer, feel relieved, drop back to minimum payments because nothing is accruing, and arrive at month nineteen with most of the balance intact and a 26 percent rate waiting.
This calculator models the cliff. It applies the promo rate for the months you enter, then switches the remainder to the after rate, and shows you the payment needed to finish inside the window. It also lets you cap the transfer amount, because approvals are routinely smaller than what you owe.
One more thing worth knowing. A balance transfer card is a new account, so expect a hard enquiry and a lower average account age. Both are small and temporary. The utilisation improvement from spreading balances across more available credit usually outweighs them.
A personal loan swaps revolving debt for a fixed payment at a fixed rate over a fixed term, which is genuinely easier to plan around. It only helps if two things are true. The rate has to be meaningfully lower than your weighted average card rate, and you have to leave the cards alone afterwards.
Watch the origination fee, commonly one to eight percent, deducted from what you receive rather than added to the balance. A loan advertised at thirteen percent with a five percent origination fee is a fair bit more expensive than thirteen percent.
The failure mode is not financial, it is behavioural. Paying the cards off with a loan leaves you with clean cards and available credit. If the spending that created the balances has not changed, you end up with the loan and the cards.
If your minimum payments alone exceed what you can pay, no ordering strategy fixes that and the calculator will tell you so. The next step there is a non profit credit counsellor through the National Foundation for Credit Counseling, who can often negotiate rates directly with your creditors.
Avalanche saves more money because it kills your highest rate first, and it is mathematically optimal in almost every case. Snowball clears your smallest balance first, which arrives sooner and keeps people going. Research from the Kellogg School of Management found smallest balance first led to higher completion rates. Run both above on your real cards. If the gap is small, take snowball. If one card carries a much higher rate than the rest, take avalanche.
It depends far more on what you pay than on the balance. A $6,000 balance at 24 percent APR runs past twenty years on minimum payments and costs more in interest than the original debt. The same balance at $250 a month is gone in roughly thirty months. Enter your cards and your monthly amount above and the calculator gives you an actual debt free date rather than a vague range.
Minimum payments are calculated to keep the account open and profitable, not to clear it. A typical minimum is one percent of the balance plus that month's interest, with a $25 or $35 floor. Early on almost the whole payment is interest, and because the minimum shrinks as the balance falls, progress slows the further you go. The comparison table above includes a minimum only line so you can see what that path costs you.
Usually yes, if you can clear the balance inside the promo. Compare the fee, typically three to five percent of the amount moved, against the interest you would otherwise pay across the promo months. On $10,000 at 24 percent a three percent fee is $300 against roughly $3,600 a year of interest, which is not a close call. The catch is the cliff at the end. Whatever is left jumps to the go to rate, often higher than the card you left.
The remaining balance starts accruing at the go to APR from that month forward. On a standard balance transfer card interest is not applied retroactively. Deferred interest offers, which are common on store cards and furniture or electronics financing, work differently and can charge you every month of interest back to the purchase date if any balance remains. Read which type you have, because the difference is enormous.
A balance transfer wins if you can clear the debt inside the promo window, because 0 percent beats any loan rate. A consolidation loan suits larger balances you cannot realistically clear in eighteen months, since it gives you a fixed rate and a fixed end date with no cliff. Watch the origination fee, commonly one to eight percent and deducted from what you receive. Both scenarios are in the comparison table above.
Yes, and usually faster than people expect, because credit utilisation is around thirty percent of a FICO score and it updates every statement cycle. Getting overall utilisation under thirty percent helps, under ten percent helps more. Per card utilisation matters too, so one maxed card hurts even when your total is low. That is what the highest utilisation first strategy above targets, and the calculator shows the month you cross each threshold.
Generally no. Closing it removes that available limit, which pushes your utilisation up on everything that is left, and it eventually shortens your average account age. Keep it open, put a small recurring charge on it and pay it in full so it stays active. The exception is a card with an annual fee that no longer earns its keep.
Yes, for two reasons. Twenty six half payments a year adds up to thirteen monthly payments rather than twelve, so you pay roughly one extra month a year. And because the money lands sooner within each cycle, your average daily balance is lower and less interest accrues. Confirm your issuer credits payments on receipt rather than holding them to the due date. Almost all now do.
Build a small buffer first, around five hundred to a thousand dollars, then go hard at the debt. Without any cushion the next unexpected bill goes straight back on a card and you undo your progress, which is demoralising enough that plenty of people quit at that point. Beyond that buffer, paying off a 24 percent card is a guaranteed 24 percent return and nothing safe comes close.
Often yes, and it costs one phone call. Ask for the retention or hardship department, mention your payment history and any competing offers you have received. Reductions of three to seven points are common for accounts in good standing. If they refuse, ask again in a few months or after a balance transfer offer arrives. Even a few points off changes the payoff maths noticeably.
Under thirty percent is the usual guidance and under ten percent is where the strongest scores sit. It is measured both overall and per card, so a single card near its limit hurts even when your total across all cards is low. Utilisation also has no memory. It is recalculated from your latest statements, so paying balances down lifts your score within a cycle or two rather than taking years.
Be careful. Settlement firms typically charge fees upfront, tell you to stop paying your creditors, which wrecks your credit and can trigger collections or a lawsuit, and forgiven debt can be taxable income. A non profit credit counsellor through the National Foundation for Credit Counseling is the safer first call and can often negotiate rates directly with creditors on a debt management plan.
Your APR is divided by 365 to give a daily periodic rate, which is applied to your average daily balance and compounded across the cycle. So a 24 percent APR is about 0.0658 percent a day. If you pay your statement in full each month you get a grace period and pay nothing. Once you carry a balance the grace period usually disappears and new purchases start accruing immediately.
Enter the number of months in the debt free by field above and the calculator solves it for you, which most tools will not do. It searches for the smallest monthly payment that clears every card inside your deadline, allowing for shrinking minimums and daily interest. If the answer is more than you can manage, extend the deadline or look at the balance transfer line, which frees up a lot of room by removing interest entirely for a while.